Every month or so, when the SAVEUR staff works late to close another issue of the magazine, we all sit down together to share a meal prepared in the test kitchen. Whenever a holiday coincides with my turn to cook, I like to take the opportunity to make a meal that will get everyone in the spirit. My most recent contribution was a Mardi Gras-themed dinner, and in choosing an accompaniment for it, I decided to update the ambrosia salad, that staple of Southern housewives' luncheons, a cooling combination of orange slices and coconut. The recipe put me on the hunt for one ingredient I'd never looked for in its unprocessed form: coconut. Old recipes for ambrosia call for gratings of fresh coconut, but with modern convenience came the prepackaged, sweetened kind, the form I'd always taken advantage of. It makes a fine substitute in a pinch, but for this dinner I wanted the real thing. Only fresh ingredients here!