Finally, if you want to open the very best bubbly, only true champagne will do. There are many fine examples on the market, ranging in price from $40 or so for non-vintage blends to many hundreds for the luxury cuvees like Moet's Dom Perignon and Louis Roederer's Cristal. Overall quality in the category is very high, so you almost can't go wrong. But were I to go champagne hunting for a true wine-loving Mom, I'd try to find Charles Heidseck's Millenaires Blanc de Blancs 1995. Made entirely with chardonnay, and now, almost twelve years after the vintage, mature and evolved, it simply tastes ethereal. This wine is a two-time winner of "best in show" at the Critic's Challenge wine competition in San Diego. (I know because I voted for it both times.) Imported by Remy Cointreau USA, it will set you back about $100.