The export market for the wines of Chinon, Bourgueil, and St-Nicolas is small, and even Parisians sometimes misunderstand them, clinging to the outmoded belief that they should be nothing more than bistro-priced "refreshment". It's little wonder, then, that many local vineyard properties have been sold and consolidated in recent years, leaving less land under vine now than there was when these appellations were created three-quarters of a century ago. On the other hand, there are still young vignerons here who are no less enthusiastic about their vinous patrimony than Charles Joguet was 40 years ago, and they are working to produce wines as fine as the appellation will allow. There may very well be great new things to come from Chinon, Bourgueil, and St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Meanwhile, there are few better alternatives to overpriced, monster wines from the world's warmer climates—especially if you are partial to the charms of the cabernet family—than a bottle of Baudry's dense, elegant Les Grezeaux or Joguet's Clos de la Dioterie, exuding leather, spice, and vanilla, with just the tiniest hint of sweet fruit.