Alsace is white wine country, best known for its dry, crisp, generally excellent rieslings and gewurztraminers. But four other principal white varieties—muscat, pinot gris (formerly called tokay d'Alsace), sylvaner, and pinot blanc—are also made, as is a single red wine, pinot noir. Very good sweeter wines, usually riesling or gewurztraminer, labeled Vendange Tardive or Selection de Grains Nobles, are increasingly popular. The wines of Alsace, which were granted appellation controlee status in 1962, are labeled not according to subregion, but by grape variety. (Many also bear individual vineyard designations.) This distinguishes them in the French marketplace—and, incidentally, made them immediately attractive to American consumers, used to the varietal labeling of California wines. The Alsatian wines most readily available in the U.S. are those of Trimbach and Hugel, both producers of good quality—but for a real treat, look for the Domaine Weinbach, Zind-Humbrecht, and Gustave Lorentz labels.