Recipes
Ochsenschwanzsuppe (Oxtail Consommé)
Caramelized tomato paste is the secret to this Swiss soup’s signature sweetness and depth.
- Serves
4
- Time
5 hours 30 minutes, plus chilling
Roasted oxtail and caramelized tomato paste add rich depth and subtle sweetness to this consommé, which translates to consummate, or perfect. To ensure that the broth is clear, chef Alexander Kroll of the Renaissance Zurich Tower Hotel creates a “raft” of ground beef and egg whites to absorb impurities, producing an elegant soup with concentrated flavor.
Featured in “The Art of Soup: Central Europe’s Warmest Traditions” by Beth Kracklauer in the November 2011 issue.
Ingredients
For the consommé:
- 3 lb. oxtails, cut crosswise into 2-in. slices
- ½ cup vegetable oil, divided
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 8 cups beef or veal stock
- 3 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
- 2 medium carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 1 large leek, coarsely chopped
- 1 small onion, coarsely chopped
- 2 Tbsp. tomato paste
- 1 tsp. black peppercorns
- 3 bay leaves
- 3 rosemary sprigs
- 1 cup dry red wine
For the consommé raft:
- 12 oz. ground beef
- ¼ cup finely chopped carrot
- ¼ cup finely chopped celery
- ¼ cup finely chopped leek
- 7 large egg whites
For serving:
- 1 small carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
- 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced scallions
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Instructions
Step 1
Make the consommé: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Rub the oxtails with ¼ cup of the oil and season with salt and black pepper. Place in a roasting pan and bake, turning once halfway through, until browned on both sides, about 1 hour. Transfer the oxtails to a plate and set aside. Add the stock to the roasting pan and, using a wooden spoon, scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom. Set aside the pan with the stock.
Step 2
To a large pot over medium-high heat, add the celery, carrots, leek, onion, and remaining oil and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened and golden brown in spots, 20–25 minutes.
Step 3
Add the tomato paste, peppercorns, bay leaves, and rosemary and cook, stirring, until the paste turns a deeper red and starts to stick to the bottom, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved oxtails and the stock and drippings from the roasting pan and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the meat can be separated easily from the bone using a fork or tongs, about 3 hours. Remove from the heat and transfer the oxtails to a cutting board. Set aside to cool slightly, then remove and discard the bones. Cut the meat into ½-inch cubes, cover, and refrigerate. Pour the soup through a fine-mesh strainer into a second large pot. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, and up to 12.
Step 4
Make the consommé raft: In a medium bowl, using your hands, mix together the ground beef, carrot, celery, leek, and egg whites until evenly combined. Stir the mixture into the chilled soup and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low and simmer undisturbed until a raft forms on top and the broth is clear, 25–30 minutes. Meanwhile, remove the reserved oxtail meat from the refrigerator and set aside at room temperature.
Step 5
Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth and place over a large bowl. Using a small ladle, break a hole in the center of the raft and, avoiding touching the raft, ladle the consommé into the strainer. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Step 6
To serve, divide the oxtail meat and carrots among four bowls and ladle the consommé over the top. Garnish with the scallions.
- Make the consommé: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Rub the oxtails with ¼ cup of the oil and season with salt and black pepper. Place in a roasting pan and bake, turning once halfway through, until browned on both sides, about 1 hour. Transfer the oxtails to a plate and set aside. Add the stock to the roasting pan and, using a wooden spoon, scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom. Set aside the pan with the stock.
- To a large pot over medium-high heat, add the celery, carrots, leek, onion, and remaining oil and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened and golden brown in spots, 20–25 minutes.
- Add the tomato paste, peppercorns, bay leaves, and rosemary and cook, stirring, until the paste turns a deeper red and starts to stick to the bottom, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved oxtails and the stock and drippings from the roasting pan and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the meat can be separated easily from the bone using a fork or tongs, about 3 hours. Remove from the heat and transfer the oxtails to a cutting board. Set aside to cool slightly, then remove and discard the bones. Cut the meat into ½-inch cubes, cover, and refrigerate. Pour the soup through a fine-mesh strainer into a second large pot. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, and up to 12.
- Make the consommé raft: In a medium bowl, using your hands, mix together the ground beef, carrot, celery, leek, and egg whites until evenly combined. Stir the mixture into the chilled soup and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low and simmer undisturbed until a raft forms on top and the broth is clear, 25–30 minutes. Meanwhile, remove the reserved oxtail meat from the refrigerator and set aside at room temperature.
- Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth and place over a large bowl. Using a small ladle, break a hole in the center of the raft and, avoiding touching the raft, ladle the consommé into the strainer. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.
- To serve, divide the oxtail meat and carrots among four bowls and ladle the consommé over the top. Garnish with the scallions.
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