When sourcing canned tomatoes for our Naples-style pizza sauce, we tried every variety we could lay our hands on, from simple American Romas to imported tomatoes with D.O.P. status, the Italian protected designation of origin. As we tested each product, raw and cooked, we looked for vibrancy of color, consistency of texture, and overall purity of flavor. In the end, we found that these dozen brands do the best job. —Farideh Sadeghin

Academia Barilla Pomodorini Pelati
Academia Barilla Pomodorini Pelati, $6.50 for a 28-oz. can at shop.academiabarilla.com
Cento San Marzano Peeled Tomatoes
Plump, robust tomatoes yield an earthy sauce that pairs well with mushrooms. Todd Coleman
Cento San Marzano Organic Peeled Tomatoes, $24 for a case of four 28-oz. cans at amazon.com

La Fede D.O.P. San Marzano with Basil
La Fede D.O.P. San Marzano Italian Tomatoes, $4 for a 28-oz. can at buylafede.com
Bella Terra Organic Italian Whole Peeled Tomatoes
Firm-fleshed fruits in a tomato-basil puree turn sweet when cooked. Todd Coleman
Bella Terra Organic Italian Whole Peeled Tomatoes, $33 for twelve 28-oz. cans at amazon.com
Rao’s Homemade Italian Peeled Tomatoes
Velvety tomatoes develop a pronounced tartness under the broiler. Todd Coleman
Rao’s Homemade Italian peeled tomatoes, $14 for four 28-oz. cans at amazon.com

Via Roma Whole Peeled San Marzano Tomatoes
Via Roma San Marzano Tomatoes, $4 for a 28-oz. can at apfreshonline.com
Muir Glen Organic Whole Peeled Plum Tomatoes
These go from field to can in eight hours, retaining a ripe flavor. Todd Coleman
Muir Glen Organic whole peeled tomatoes, $8 for two 28-oz. cans at amazon.com

Famoso San Marzano Tomatoes P.D.O.
Famoso Estate San Marzano DOP Whole Plum Tomatoes, $4.75 for a 28-oz. can, contact Famoso Gourmet Imports at 508/824-2800
San Marzano Whole Peeled Tomatoes
Lightly salted U.S.-grown beauties have a bright flavor–no seasoning needed. Todd Coleman
San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes, $6 for a 28-oz. can at amazon.com

Ciao Pomodori Pelati Italiani
Ciao Peeled Tomatoes/Pomodori Pelati, contact Anna Sodano at Orlando Food Service 201/368-9197, orlandofoods.com
365 Everyday Value Whole Peeled Tomatoes
Whole Foods’ store brand has a deep sweetness, perfect for marinara sauce. Todd Coleman
365 Everyday Value Whole Peeled Tomatoes, $1.50 for a 28-oz. can at amazon.com
La Valle Pomodoro San Marzano D.O.P.
A bold punch of basil and lip-smacking acidity; good for raw or cooked sauces. Todd Coleman
La Valle San Marzano D.O.P. Italian peeled tomatoes, $20 for a 5-pack of 28-oz. cans at amazon.com