As a child, Hubert helped clean gentian root with a brush and some water, cutting out brown spots with the tip of a knife, as you would a potato. He trained the current distiller, Olivier Giffard, husband of Hubert's niece, Marie. The Bigallet production facilities feel more like Willy Wonka's factory than a prototypical cold, damp, and somewhat depressing distillery. The workers there are dressed in blue pants and purple sweatshirts. And the plant even smells like candy. In the back, hydraulic pumps wheeze and click, capping bottles of syrups. A large vintage poster for Amer Citronné dominates one hallway. The image shows a woman dressed in a pale yellow dress, its fabric forming the shape of overlapping lemons. The product has long been out of existence, but Olivier has been experimenting with a new version in his lab. He shows me a recipe for the original from an old, yellowing book with graceful looping handwriting in ink. He promises to share a sample of the work in progress.