t’s never surprised me that, in India, there are restaurants dedicated to dosas. One of the country’s most flavorful, sustaining, and comforting foods, these thin, sometimes massive crêpes made from a fermented batter of ground rice and dal (dried, split beans) are typically filled with spiced vegetables and served with refreshing chutneys. Though they originated in South India as a breakfast food, dosas have become so popular that they’re served at all times of day throughout the country. Unlike French crêpes or American pancakes, which are cakey throughout, the ideal dosa is crisp and golden on the outside, with a slightly spongy interior. The best ones glisten without being greasy, and, by way of a well-fermented batter, have all the flavor of an exceptionally funky sourdough. Growing up in Dallas, when I craved a dosa that checked all the boxes, I’d pay a visit to Guna Raj, a close friend of my mother’s—whom I affectionately refer to as Guna Aunty. She learned to make dosa growing up in Karnataka. Guna taught me her secrets, and though assembling them just like she does has taken a little practice, they have become a regular staple in my kitchen.