It is one of the most elegant phrases in the English language: dressing for dinner. It dates back to an era when recently polished candlesticks lit the room, and there was the occasional smashed glass but never a smashed phone screen. There is more than a hint of aristocracy to the phrase: practically speaking, there is the understanding that if you dress for dinner, you will be served by others, that they will clear the dishes and wash them up. The majority of us do not live this way. For ordinary dinners the chef, the guest, and the busser are all played by you. For many of us, that’s part of the fun: testing your pastry skills one minute, enjoying the fruits of your labor the next, and then later, after you’ve drained the last of your wine, getting the whole story on your friend’s promotion as she helps you with the dishes. But there are some occasions, like Thanksgiving, when you want to do it all, be it all, in something nice.