My favorite Greek reds, hands down, are made from the native xinomavro grape. It's cultivated all over northern Greece, but its epicenter is the region surrounding the town of Naoussa, my personal Shangri-la of red wine in Greece. Like a classic burgundy or barolo, the best xinomavros yield an exquisitely complex nose and age beautifully. When xinomavro wine is young, it's light-bodied, shows mellow fruit (strawberries or raspberries), and has soft tannins that are superlative with grilled foods. Excellent introductions are the 2006 Kir-Yianni Ramnista ($30), with its red-fruit nose layered with smoke, and the light and tender 2006 Karydas Naoussa ($26). As xinomavro ages, something extraordinary happens; the wine lurches into tomato territory—we're talking ripe tomato, even tomato jam. And as it reaches full maturity, xinomavro develops hints of earth, white truffle, cedar, even tobacco. Old xinomavro is one of the wine world's great thrills, and luckily, some old ones are available in the United States. The 2000 Vaeni Grand Reserve ($23) delivers a compelling mingling of tomato, cherry, and tobacco aromas and a lean, slightly green, exotically complex flavor. The 2003 Grande Reserve Naoussa from Boutari ($25) carries a lovely fruit nose, with hints of leather and tomato.