There's not only a new approach to the tried-and-true in Argentina; there's also experimentation with grapes better known elsewhere. In neighboring Chile, sauvignon blanc is a winner, so Argentine vintners are trying it, too. Zorzal's 2009 ($13) is herbal, figgy, and crisp. Even better are efforts with pinot grigio. Argento's 2010 pinot grigio ($12) is one of the world's most refreshing. As well, the old grapes are entering into new marriages. Zuccardi's Santa Julia Innovacion, a torrontes—pinot grigio mix ($10), is flexible for all kinds of foods. Some of the most exciting blends are based on bonarda: framboise-like Tikal Patriota 2009 (60 percent bonarda, 40 percent malbec) at $20; Susana Balbo's spicy, leathery 2008 Crios (50 percent bonarda, 50 percent syrah) at $15; and rich, minerally La Posta Cocina Tinto 2009 (20 percent bonarda, 20 percent syrah, 60 percent malbec), also $15. Finally, there's a playfulness to much of the winemaking in Argentina today. In Tupungato, for instance, the Italian producer Masi makes the ripasso-style Passo Doble ($14), taking lightly fermented malbec juice and passing it over dried Venetian corvina grapes. The garnet-hued wine has a roasted coffee nose and a sweet, gratifying beginning followed by balance and verve. Masi's spirit catches the current Argentine mood: With all this marvelous fruit to play with, why stick to tradition?