Funny what a little shift in perspective will do, though. These days, classic cocktails are back. Bitters, rye whiskey, vermouths—anything that has pre-Prohibition roots—are getting a second look, and so is sherry. The popularity of Spanish tapas, traditionally consumed with sherry, has helped to raise the drink's profile, too, but those are only superficial reasons why sherry deserves a comeback. Sure, the wine has impeccable old-school credentials, and, yes, a lot of the traits that kept sherry on the sidelines—the mellow, oxidized flavors; the sweetness and the added alcohol—no longer seem so outdated or esoteric. But ultimately, the allure of this drink is as simple and timeless as that of all the finest wines and spirits: it's artisanally made, unique in its flavors and colors, and, most important, deeply pleasurable to drink.