Freigeist Bierkultur is part of the new wave of German brewers focusing on small-scale production, limited exports, and forgotten styles. An experimental offshoot of Braustelle, the smallest brewery in Cologne, Freigeist brewer Sebastian Sauer digs up old German recipes and recreates them with a progressive bend. Ottekolong (meaning "water from Cologne" in local dialect) is an unfiltered version of Cologne's specialty Kolsch style, but with a fuller body and a more pronounced bitterness than that of beers from larger producers (think Gaffel Kolsch). The spooky label, which features a cartoon ghost, a Gothic cathedral, and some vintage horror-movie font, was designed by American artist Keith Shore. And at a mild 4.8 percent alcohol by volume, this is a beer to be enjoyed all night long.