"The martini is a very serious thing for a bartender," Mauro Lotti, longtime head bartender at Le Grand Hotel in Rome, once told us. "If you don't make it right, you might as well retire. Clients are very severe about their martinis. And the martini has made a new breed of man—the martinian. You can recognize him the minute he walks in—very slowly, with determination. He's always wearing a well-worn jacket and old, comfortable shoes, often English-style. And the tie—he always wears a tie—is never a smart color, but soft. He looks you straight in the eye, and before he utters a word, I know that he's going to ask for a martini. And 90 percent of the time, I'm right.