There are two kinds of orchards in the cider zone—hautes tiges and basses tiges, meaning "high stems" and "low stems", respectively. Bordelet has two hectares of hautes tiges trees, courtesy of his parents, Roger and Claudine—a beautiful, anarchic orchard beneath whose thick canopy of leaves the air seems 10 degrees cooler than it does on the sun-drenched rise where Bordelet has planted eight hectares of saplings. At first glance, the young trees, espaliered in long, even rows, seem a standard basses tiges orchard. (Basses tiges trees bear more fruit than hautes tiges, more quickly, and allow machine harvesting.) Bordelet's young orchard, however, is unique: He has planted his trees as densely as if they were vines at a first-growth Bordeaux chateau, with 2,000 per hectare rather than the typical 600. "I'd rather have 100 kilos of fruit from four trees than from one," he explains. He also follows the principles of biodynamics (an ultrastrict form of organic agriculture), keeps yields low by not irrigating, and harvests entirely by hand.