It says much about the strength of family tradition in the region that the aristocracy among Cahors winemakers includes the same names that have been associated with the wine for generations: Resses of Chateau La Caminade, Jouffreau of Chateau du Cayrou, Rigal of St-Didier, Monpezat of Chateau de Monpezat, Baldes of Chateau Triguedina. The particuliers of Cahors—proprietors of family-owned chateaux—work their own fields. At harvest time, they are out among the migrant pickers from Portugal and Morocco. To shake hands with Jean Baldes of Chateau Triguedina in Puy-l'Éveque—who died in 1996—for example, was to feel the rough palm of a farmer. But Baldes, who was stubborn and ribald and smart, was a farmer who made good—and his success made him, like a number of other particuliers, affluent enough to be able to afford heavy capital investments in the latest equipment. Chateau Triguedina, dating from 1830, is built in the classic Quercy style of limestone and straight lines. Under it, the cool ground floor is used as a wine cellar. Yet behind the house is a modern chai, a model of winemaking technology: huge, gleaming fermentation tanks, computerized climate controls, and rows of oak barrels, maturing wine that no one will drink for at least three years.