In fall and winter a beautiful array of orange-fleshed, hard-skinned squashes appear at the markets: dark green- and orange-skinned acorn squash; creamy and dense kabocha; diminutive delicata, with its thin, edible skin; spaghetti squash; and more. Each has its own particular characteristics, and we look forward to cooking with all of them—whether puréed, halved and roasted, or used to enrich hearty soups and stews. See a guide to our favorite varieties and their best uses »
Like many traditional Emirati desserts, luscious pumpkin porridge (in Arabic it’s a halvah, or sweet food) straddles the line between sweet and savory. The dish thickens as it cools, so be sure to serve it while it’s still quite warm.
It’s rare that we encounter spaghetti squash not shredded into its eponymous noodle-like threads. But kept intact, it reveals a beautifully yielding texture and a savory, subtle flavor that’s perfectly offset by a rich walnut-miso glaze.