The affogato is so simple it almost defies innovation, but that’s exactly why I can’t leave it alone. And when you start thinking of it as a format rather than a recipe, your choices burst wide open. How about a pour of lemon-and-clove-spiked Scotch hot toddy? Or mulled cider over a scoop of butter pecan? Or, the most versatile and, to my mind, delicious—a pour of some tea.