Pike Cakes with Crayfish Sauce (Quenelles de Brochet)

Pike Quenelles with Sauce Nantua (Quenelles de Brochet)
Pike Quenelles with Sauce Nantua (Quenelles de Brochet)Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross

When he was a young kitchen apprentice, Boulud made 200 of these quenelles each week. "Fifty percent of the pleasure of the quenelle is in the sauce—without the sauce, it's not that interesting," he says. Traditionally, they are served with a sauce Nantua (made from crayfish from the region of Nantua), but you can use any shellfish, such as crab or lobster.