In centuries past, at the end of winter, the pantries of Southern French families living in Gruissan were quite bare. A few dried beans, a piece of pork confit or a sausage, a glug of tomato coulis: a bit of everything but not enough to make a hearty dish. That was without counting on the richness of the sea. It’s said that one day, a local fisherman returned home with the first cuttlefish of the season; inspiration struck, and his wife decided to combine land and sea. This version, which is adapted from the one served at La Cambuse du Saunier Gruissan, gets its freshness from a swirl of garlicky persillade sauce. Ask your fishmonger to clean the cuttlefish bodies for you. Tender and buttery lingot beans cook more quickly than the larger Tarbais variety—look for them at well-stocked specialty markets, or order online from Kalustyan’s.
Featured in: "It May Be September, But We’re Not Done Drinking Rosé."
- 5 lb. (2¼ lb.) dried white lingot beans, soaked overnight
- Fine sea salt
- 2 tbsp. (1 oz.) duck fat
- Two 6-in. Toulouse sausages (8 oz.), or substitute any fresh, mild pork sausage
- 5 oz. boneless pork loin
- ¼ cups persillade sauce, plus more for serving (or substitute 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil; and ½ cup finely chopped Italian parsley)
- 2 medium tomatoes (10 oz.), finely chopped
- 1 medium yellow onion (9 oz.), finely chopped
- 1 cup tomato purée
- 2¼ lb. whole small cuttlefish, or large cuttlefish bodies, cut in wide strips
- Crusty bread, for serving