Over a picnic—hard-boiled eggs from the Kalnoky henhouse, fried chicken cutlets, urdă cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers, pale-green peppers, bread—Kalnoky gave us a lesson in Transylvanian foodways. "Transylvania has three main kitchens: Hungarian, Romanian, and Saxon," he said. The Saxons, most of whom have moved away, were German-speaking people from Flanders, Luxembourg, and the Moselle Valley invited to settle fertile lands on the vulnerable eastern boundaries of Hungary by King Geza II in the 12th century and King Bela IV in the 13th. "Together with the Szekelys, they held off the Turks," Kalnoky explained. The Turks had a big influence on local cooking, though. "Their tastes are reflected in the sour ciorbă soups we like so much"—the Turkish word for soup is çorba—"and they also brought us pickles and sweet desserts. The Hungarians gave us a taste for vegetables and paprika, although our main seasonings are still dill, lovage, parsley, and chives. We get our love of dairy products from the Saxons, who also introduced bacon, sausage, and lard." But those are just the broad outlines. Over the centuries, other groups—Armenians, Jews, Roma (Gypsies)—have brought their own ingredients and ways of cooking to the Transylvanian kitchen.