Charles Krug, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2004

California merlot may not be as trendy as Golden State pinot noir these days, but let's be honest—the state's best merlots are usually far superior to today's often treacley-sweet pinots. Here's an impressive example of the varietal, marked by genuine depth of flavor and a long, satisfying finish. Merlot can be a wonderful lead grape (as it often is in Bordeaux), and Charles Krug is making some delicious wines these days.