Good chablis is slow to develop, both in the bottle and in the glass. It needs time to reveal its complexity and, with the exception of the oldest vintages, is one of the few whites that benefit from decanting. Grand cru chablis, from prized south-facing slopes, is the most tightly wound but also the most profound, and it gains character with a good five to ten years in the bottle. Bottles labeled premier cru need a bit less time; those labeled village even less. When exposed to air, even very young chablis can taste regal: dry, with citrus- or apple-tinged flavors, a hint of dairy in the bouquet, and a steely finish. Especially when compared with other chardonnays, chablis stands coolly above the fray.