Massena, Barossa Valley (Australia) “Moonlight Run” 2005

Imported by Epicurean Wines, $31

A Rhone-styled blend of grenache, shiraz, mourvedre, and cinsault, this wine displays the black pepper aromas and earthy undertones common in top French renditions but often absent elsewhere. Those qualities tend to come in wines made from grapes grown in relatively cool vineyards, but South Australia's Barossa Valley is notoriously hot. No matter, those flavors and aromas give the wine an exciting level of complexity, making it seem compelling. Though tasty now, it certainly has the stuffing to age gracefully for up to a decade. Pair it with equally hearty, earthy-flavored foods—braised meats, and virtually anything with mushrooms.