One Good Bottle: Texas Viognier

André Baranowski

Viognier, a grape that produces aromatic white wines in its native France, has a surprising affinity for the loamy, russet-colored dirt of the Texas High Plains. That's where Becker Vineyards makes its award-winning Texas Viognier ($14.95), a wine with ripe peach and floral aromas, all balanced with a bright acidity that stands up to curries and even Texas barbecue. Becker makes other excellent wines—including a delicious blend of carignane, mourvedre, syrah, and grenache bottled under the name Prairie Rotie—but for me the sunny viognier captures better than any wine I know the essence of a laid-back Texas summer day. Not enough of an accolade for you? Then ask the opinion of Texas governor Rick Perry and his wife, Anita: Texas Viognier is one of their favorites.