On chilly autumn evenings, I usually yearn for a warming cognac, that long-aged brandy from the French region of the same name. Lately, I've been reaching instead for gin. G'Vine Floraison ($35), a gin from Cognac, France, is distilled from the blossoms of ugni blanc grapes, which happen to be the main variety used to make cognac. To this floral base are added botanicals ranging from gin's signature juniper to ginger and cardamom, which lend Floraison its sweet spiciness. Such a delicate, dare I say feminine gin makes a lovely martini mixed two-to-one with dry vermouth, and it goes well with Chambord or any other fruity liqueur. But I like it best with a splash of Peychaud's bitters; it's a soft, elegant alternative to my usual cold-weather warmer.