Each new collaboration and experience has, to some extent, changed how Moorman makes wine. Some of these experiences give him the chance to work with other wine connoisseurs who are doing daring things, like the sommelier Rajat Parr, of Michael Mina in San Francisco (see "The Believers", April 2009). Others have given him the chance to go out on a limb. With Piedrasassi, for instance, he began working with Rimrock, a cool, foggy vineyard that was planted with syrah and which during one year produced grapes with only 22 brics of sugar, significantly lower than the usual level. "I thought to myself, You just can't pick syrah at 22 brics, it will be disgusting," Moorman told me, "but it was November 30, and the leaves had all fallen off the vine, so we harvested them and made wine, and it turned out to be really great wine. We were amazed." With each of these experiences, Moorman has taken the things he's learned back to Stolpman and his other labels, ensuring that his approach to winemaking continues to evolve and change with every vintage.