Cooking with yogurt is tricky business—push the heat to high and the yogurt will break, leaving grainy nubs of coagulated protein in what should be a creamy broth. Slow, gentle heat is the first safeguard for this dish, but so is the egg that gets whisked in with the yogurt and water base. The egg helps emulsify the soup as it heats up, as does the starch that leaches out of the raw rice you cook in it. If you take your time you're rewarded with a bright, creamy, undeniably yogurty soup with delightfully chewy bits of rice and chickpeas. To finish it off, blitz it with herbs—sorrel if you can find it, mint, and cilantro. Or whatever's in your garden; we wouldn't say no to tarragon or perilla.