This recipe for bouillabaisse came from Provençal fisherman Lucien Vitiello. It's not what fish you use, he told us, but how many kinds that counts. A good fish stock is also important. See the recipe for Bouillabaisse ». Jean-Bernard Naudin
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1. Fishermen throw their nets into the Mediterranean and pull up such fish as saint-pierre, chapon, dorade, conger, grondin, and vive¿a good start for bouillabaisse. Variety is essential. Jean-Bernard Naudin
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2. Olive oil, garlic, onions, fennel tops, thyme, and other herbs go into the pot for Proven¿al flavor. Jean-Bernard Naudin
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3. Potatoes and tomatoes (the latter fresh in season; otherwise, canned may be used) are added. Jean-Bernard Naudin
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4. Fish, whole or cut into pieces, is then put in (the firmer fish first, more delicate varieties on top). More tomatoes can be tossed in. Jean-Bernard Naudin
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5. Fish stock, or in some cases water, and more olive oil are poured over all of the ingredients. Shellfish such as mussels and crabs can be added at this point. Jean-Bernard Naudin
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6. Although considered an optional ingredient, pastis, the anise-flavored Proven¿al aperitif, is sometimes added for its delicate, refreshing character. Jean-Bernard Naudin
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7. Saffron is essential, lending its unmistakable flavor to the dish and tinting both soup and fish a distinctive red-orange color. Jean-Bernard Naudin
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8. Rapid boiling is the key to the process, emulsifying the oil, stock, and fish gelatin¿thus forming the rich soup that characterizes a successful bouillabaisse. (The foam that develops is skimmed off the top before serving.) Jean-Bernard Naudin
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9. The finished bouillabaisse is ready to be served in the traditional two courses. Jean-Bernard Naudin

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