The menu at New York chef Andrew Carmellini's southern Italian-inspired restaurant Leuca has a lot going for it: inventive riffs on classic antipasti and pastas, Neapolitan-style pizza, and a showstopping roast suckling pig for two. But the dish that has stayed with us since opening day is a seasonal, seemingly humble special: grilled cabbage salad. Carmellini transforms the often ho-hum vegetable into the sweetest and smokiest version of itself by slow-roasting the heads over an open fire. The charred greens are then tossed with a zippy citrus-and-olive-oil dressing and loaded with umami-rich capers, anchovies, garlic, and grated pecorino—or "Caesar Flavors," according to the menu. Finished with crispy fried bread crumbs and a few of the tart marinated white anchovies known as boquerones, the dish is a masterpiece. So of course, we had to ask Carmellini how to make it.