Braised Beef Cheeks (Joues de Boeuf Confites)

Joues de Boeuf Confites

At Le Bistrot Paul Bert, chef Thierry Laurent transforms beef cheeks, a humble, relatively tough cut, into a meltingly tender entree by first marinating the beef in a heady mixture of red wine and aromatic herbs and then braising it for four hours in the marinade until the meat becomes supple and fork-tender.Landon Nordeman

At Le Bistrot Paul Bert, chef Thierry Laurent transforms beef cheeks, a humble, relatively tough cut, into a meltingly tender entree by first marinating the beef in a heady mixture of red wine and aromatic herbs and then braising it for four hours in the marinade until the meat becomes supple and fork-tender.

Pairing note: a hearty dish such as this calls for a dark, well concentrated wine like the P. Amadieu Romane Machotte Gigondas 2007 ($24), with its nose of plum, cherry, and spice. —M.P.