Rhum denotes rums of the French-speaking Caribbean, the best of which come from Martinique. The island specializes in rhum agricole, or agricultural rum, distilled from fresh-pressed cane juice, as opposed to the molasses used to make other rums (called rhum industriel or rhum traditionnel in this context). Fermenting and distilling cane juice yields a grassy, vegetal spirit unlike anything else in the world of rum. Young, tequilalike white agricole is too harsh for sipping; Martinicans mix it with lime and cane syrup in their national drink, Petit Punch, or 'Ti Punch. This drink tastes even better with a rich, perfumey agricole vieux, aged from three to 15 years and—alone among rums—subject to the same strict aging guidelines that France applies to its homegrown spirits. What's more, according to rum historian and importer Ed Hamilton, "Agricoles aren't aged in American oak like other rums. They mature in French oak, which imparts a nutlike flavor instead of the usual vanilla." Many vieux bottlings, such as the top-shelf offerings from Neisson and Rhum J.M., approach the depth and complexity of XO cognac.