The French sure know how to throw a party. I went to one the other night that was hosted by Grey Goose Vodka at Alain Ducasse's Manhattan restaurant, Adour. I am a fan of the soft, sweet French style of spirit making, and Grey Goose is no exception. Vodka has often gotten a bad rap, particularly from gin drinkers like me. But as brand ambassador Nick Mautone demonstrated that evening, even a mass-marketed vodka can take on multiple, fascinating personalities. He served each of the guests five little martinis, mixed in proportions that varied by 10%: one 50/50 vodka and dry vermouth, the next 60/40, then 70/30, 80/20, and finally, 90/10. The trick made me feel like Goldilocks. Depending on one's palate, mood, and the food on one's plate, this mix was too sweet, that mix too astringent, and a third tasted just right.