Christmas morning for Jonathan Brooks, chef-owner of the quirky breakfast-and-lunch spot Milktooth in Indianapolis, was always a morning-to-afternoon affair. His big family alternated cross-country skiing and sledding with picking at the Pillsbury orange rolls, honey-baked ham, scrambled eggs, and bacon left out on the table. "We did it almost tapas-style," he says. Now that he has his own wife and kids, he sticks to the same format of a long, lingering breakfast, but makes giant, gooey pecan sticky buns from scratch with a few clever tricks: The caramel is made with coconut milk, beer, coffee, and barley malt syrup. While the kids are tearing into presents, Brooks passes around ginger-absinthe mimosas. Booze while you're still in your pajamas? Hey, it's a holiday breakfast; you make the rules.