Turkish Steamed Anchovies and Tomatoes (Hamsi Bugulama)

Sliver-skinned anchovies

Turkish Steamed Anchovies and Tomatoes (Hamsi Bugulama)

Turkish Steamed Anchovies and Tomatoes (Hamsi Bugulama)Matt Taylor-Gross

At Emre Balikcilik, a charmingly rustic spot in Giresun, on Turkey's eastern Black Sea coast, Turken Tunan prepares simple stovetop dishes with fish pulled from her fishmonger husband Turgay's display case, which sits at the entrance. Bugulama (from bugulamak, Turkish for "steamed or boiled") describe a whole range of ways of preparing fish on the Black Sea coast; there are probably as many versions as there are cooks. Bugulama can be soupy, saucy or dry; cooked on the stovetop or in the oven; spare and simple, little more than fish poached on the bone with parsley and garlic, or lush with juicy tomatoes and lots of freshly churned Black Sea butter.

Turken’s anchovy bugulama layers whole fish (cleaned, head and tail removed, spine left in; you could also use butterflied fillets) with thinly sliced tomatoes and green chiles. A splash of white verjus or apple vinegar (do not substitute wine vinegar) lightens the dish while bringing out the sweetness of the tomatoes. Don’t skimp on the butter—a Black Sea cook would use all four tablespoons, and more. This preparation also works with other oily fish such as mackerel, bluefish, even sliced salmon. Bread, to mop up the sauce, is an essential accompaniment.

Because of their small size, fresh anchovies are one of the easiest fish to clean and filet. Using a sharp paring knife, split open the belly lengthwise, then slice away the head. Pull out the bones (they should come out in one clean piece), then gently rinse the remaining filets in a bowl of cold water.