Turken’s anchovy bugulama layers whole fish (cleaned, head and tail removed, spine left in; you could also use butterflied fillets) with thinly sliced tomatoes and green chiles. A splash of white verjus or apple vinegar (do not substitute wine vinegar) lightens the dish while bringing out the sweetness of the tomatoes. Don’t skimp on the butter—a Black Sea cook would use all four tablespoons, and more. This preparation also works with other oily fish such as mackerel, bluefish, even sliced salmon. Bread, to mop up the sauce, is an essential accompaniment.