The true "devil style" chicken is liberally seasoned with red pepper flakes, but for a milder version just omit the spice.

2 3 1/2-lb. chickens
3 lemons
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Using a sharp knife or kitchen shears, remove chicken backs by cutting along both sides of the backbone. Discard backbones, or save for making stock. Rinse birds, and pat dry with paper towels. Place each butterflied chicken on a cutting board skin side up, and roll a rolling pin on it, leaning heavily on the pin to flatten the birds.

2. Place chicken in a wide, deep dish. Squeeze the juice from 2 of the lemons over bird, add 1/2 cup of the oil, and season to taste with salt and lots of pepper. Set aside to marinate for 30-60 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, preheat grill. Squeeze juice from the remaining lemon into a small bowl, whisk in the remaining 1/4 cup oil, and season to taste with salt and lots of pepper, then set aside. Remove chickens from marinade, discarding marinade. Grill birds over medium-hot coals, basting occasionally with the reserved lemon and oil, until skin is well browned on both sides and thigh juices run clear when pricked with a fork, about 50 minutes. Set chickens aside to rest for 10 minutes, then cut into quarters.