Sesame oil, whose nutty flavor has long been prized in many South Asian, East Asian, and Mediterranean cuisines, makes an appearance in several of this issue's recipes, including the Japanese fried rice and the Cypriot eggs and greens. Though all sesame oils come from sesame seeds, their character varies depending on the variety of seed used (they can be white, red, brown, or black) and the different production methods employed for making them. Broadly speaking, there are two kinds. Light-hued oils, popular in South Asian and Mediterranean kitchens, are made from white sesame seeds that have been cold-pressed at temperatures below 113˚. Dark-colored oils, favored in East Asia, are pressed from roasted white or black seeds. Here are five varieties and brands that represent the breadth of flavors this kitchen staple can exhibit.