Cod and Pearl Onion Stew

Practicing our fish-butchering skills resulted in a treasure trove of trimmings, so we turned to our whole-fish guru, Barton Seaver, for help putting the leftovers to good use. This creamy, smoky stew with pearl onions and flaky cod can be made using scraps picked from the bones. Seaver brines the meat (which helps tighten its texture) and cold-smokes the bones and trimmings before stewing them. Our quicker variation relies instead on a spoonful of smoked paprika (pimentón). —Kat Craddock