Lately, though, I've been cooking from the Gjelina cookbook and learning to love the sub. The book is lousy with them. A simple-looking okra dish, for instance, calls for their tomato "confit," which involves 30 minutes of peeling and seeding tomatoes (one of my least favorite kitchen tasks), drowning them a massive quantity of olive oil, and cooking them for four hours in the oven. I'd ordinarily dismiss this as not worth the time, but on a Sunday last month I poured myself a glass of wine and sucked it up. The okra was predictably delicious, with a richness that a quick tomato preparation wouldn't have. But the real dividends from that work came later: the leftover tomatoes have been great chopped up in pasta sauces and on sandwiches, and the salty tomato-infused oil became a sensational base for salad dressing.