I had Tim Smith's aromatic viognier at Home of the Brave, a tapas bar in a tin shed, where the ambience included an inflatable penguin and G-strings available for purchase. Another afternoon, I visited Artisans of Barossa. Started in 2011 by seven producers who were too small to handle visitors alone, it's a tasting room and community hangout with serious food. I stood at the bar watching ad men in button-downs nibble empanadas and lamb flatbread, hard at work at a Thursday happy hour. They seemed oblivious to whatever was in their glasses, but to me, nearly everything I tasted was a revelation. These wines were vital, energetic. Many consisted of varieties I never thought I'd find beyond European backwaters: aglianico, clairette, durif, graciano, ugni blanc, alone and in fascinating combinations.