Until a couple days ago, I couldn't remember the last time I had sangria. Or, for that matter, even thought about it. Apparently, I'm not alone. A few years ago, when Jon Santer—an alum of San Francisco's standard-bearing speakeasy, Bourbon & Branch—opened the laid-back watering hole Prizefighter in Emeryville, California, he put several kinds of large-format drinks, including sangria, on the menu. But his customers would only order punch. "I don't understand why," says Santer. "The sangria is really good, but I guess it's not cool." Punch has been in vogue for some time now, at least in part because of David Wondrich's delightful ode, Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl (Perigee Books 2010). The gorgeous vintage glassware that it's traditionally served in probably didn't hurt either. Sangria, on the other hand, has had no such revival. Clunky pitchers filled with cheap, sweetened wine and booze-logged hunks of Granny Smith apples—it's the kind of stuff a group of your aunts might drink on the back deck alongside a pasta salad mixed with sun-dried tomatoes. It is the white zin of the cocktail world. But now with mom jeans—and, well, white zinfandels—making a comeback, it's time for sangria to find its cool again too. That time is this Memorial Day weekend.