The other day, my heart was hurting to the point where the only acceptable salve was loads of sour cream, so I dashed through the rain to eat dinner at the counter of Little Poland, a cozy Eastern European diner in a New York neighborhood that's rapidly losing its borscht belt character. There they serve an excellent bigos: pork shoulder, kielbasa, and bacon braised in sauerkraut until the cabbage collapses into smoky caramel. They serve it in a bread bowl. The bread's just okay and pretty forgettable. But that fine layer of interior crumb, where starch meats pork fat and cabbage stew and melts into an almost custardy thing? It's salvation.