At Carbone Hong Kong, the goal is replication—the Torrisi boys' boosters and customers want Italian-American food rendered as faithfully to the New York template as possible. New Jersey tomatoes are shipped across the Pacific by the pallet-load. Still, where fresh ingredients are concerned, Carbone has to learn to adapt. "I just think of myself as a chef who's cooking food from the Italian region known as Hong Kong," he says. Absent langoustines, which are not native to Asian waters, he uses spiny lobsters in his scampi alla scampi, and, instead of using halibut in his fish piccata entrée, as is the norm in New York, he subs in grouper, purchased "from a guy who shows up at our door with the fish swimming in a plastic tub."