Salted eggs are so ubiquitous in Chinese cooking that they’re practically mundane. For my parents, Chinese immigrants who settled in the American South, home wasn’t home without a jar of duck eggs preserved the traditional Chinese way, whole and raw in brine. Over the course of weeks, the salt water drew out moisture, concentrating the egg’s rich flavor and rendering the whites creamy and as saline as the brackish water the egg is set in. The yolks hardened into bright orange spheres, the fattiness thick and concentrated, cut through by a whisper of salt. We ate them regularly as a comforting staple with rice porridge.