Duck and Andouille Gumbo

Fatty game bird, spicy Cajun sausage, and okra enrich chef Justin Devillier’s hearty winter stew.

  • Serves


  • Cook

    5 hours


By Justin Devillier

Updated on February 17, 2023

For his take on Cajun gumbo, chef Justin Devillier of La Petite Grocery in New Orleans uses rendered duck fat in the roux instead of butter and quartered ducks in lieu of the classic chicken. In this duck and andouille gumbo recipe, we’ve called for only duck legs, which stay tender during a low-and-slow cooking process and won’t run the risk of drying out like breast meat.


  • 8 duck legs (about 6 lb.), fat trimmed, thighs and drumsticks separated
  • 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 12 thyme sprigs
  • 1 fresh sage sprig
  • 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. (5 oz.) all-purpose flour
  • 2 Tbsp. hot sauce
  • 2 Tbsp. sweet paprika
  • 1 Tbsp. cayenne pepper
  • 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 lb. andouille sausage, cut crosswise into ¼-in.-thick coins
  • 1 lb. okra, cut crosswise into ⅓-in.-thick coins
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Cooked white rice, for serving


Step 1

In a large skillet, place the duck thighs skin side down in a single layer, then place the skillet over medium heat. Cook until the thighs are deep golden brown on one side, about 40 minutes. Flip the thighs and continue cooking until browned on the opposite side, about 5 minutes more. Transfer the thighs to a plate, then add the drumsticks to the skillet, skin side down, and cook until deep golden brown on one side, about 20 minutes. Flip the drumsticks and continue cooking until browned on the other side, about 5 minutes more. Transfer the drumsticks to the plate with the thighs and pour the rendered fat from the skillet into a heatproof measuring cup. Set 1 cup of the fat aside, and save the remainder for another use. (Duck fat keeps very well in the freezer for up to 3 months.)

Step 2

Return the skillet to medium heat, add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the skillet, until the onions are soft and just beginning to brown, 6–10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Step 3

Make a bouquet garni: in a large square of cheesecloth, bundle together the thyme and sage sprigs; tie with kitchen twine to close, and set aside.

Step 4

In a large pot, heat the cup of reserved duck fat over medium-low. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring continuously, until the roux turns dark brown, 30–40 minutes. Scrape the cooled onion-garlic mixture into the roux, then stir in the hot sauce, paprika, cayenne, and Worcestershire. Add the reserved duck pieces and herb bouquet to the pot, followed by the andouille, okra, and 10 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the duck meat is falling off the bone, about 2 hours.

Step 5

Season the gumbo with salt and black pepper to taste, ladle into wide bowls, and serve hot with rice.

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