I'm infatuated with This Old House, and love building and tinkering with things, so I stayed up late one night dreaming, researching, and drawing pictures of a trout pond. Why trout? I'm a huge sustainability buff and strongly believe that chefs have a responsibility to grow things thoughtfully, and I've known for years that trout and watercress have a symbiotic relationship: The fish fertilize the plants, and the watercress (grown hydroponically) filters out the ammonia. A week later, my business partner, Dave, and I had taken out a planter in the back of the restaurant that consistently produced nothing—we tried asparagus, herbs, nothing grew—and poured concrete for our hydroponic system. I put piping in the walls, built a pump, put in a warmer and a chiller for temperature control, the works. We got the trout from this gorgeous hatchery about an hour from Montreal. Trout and watercress: I think of them as being a perfect pairing, like beef and red wine—but sustainable.