All forms of molasses have a savory-sweet flavor and umami, with notes of soy sauce, chicory, baking spices, burnt caramel, and coffee. Much like first-press olive oils are treasured for their pure flavor, light molasses—which drains off during the the first of several cane or sugar beet boilings—is considered the fanciest form. It has the highest sugar content, a deep brown tone, and delicate flavor. After a second boiling and sugar extraction comes dark molasses (sometimes called treacle, especially by the British), which is the style I prefer: darker and more opaque than light molasses, thicker in body, slightly less sweet and slightly more interesting. A third distilling produces super concentrated blackstrap molasses, the thickest, darkest, least sweet, and most bitter and robust of all molasses styles. It is also the healthiest—with high levels of iron (more than red meat), calcium, and magnesium.