And so we sought to perfect this most apt of cocktail party foods. With a nod to our own pasts, we contemplated bread and cream cheese doughs, to start. We considered puff pastry, croissant, and brioche too, but finally settled on the most American of doughs: the Southern buttermilk biscuit, whose floury, friable texture is unique to our culture. We replaced the baking powder with a combination of baking soda and cream of tartar to alleviate the slight metallic taste of chemical leavening. To elevate the dough, both literally and figuratively, we folded, or “laminated,” it, producing layers that rise in a way reminiscent of puff pastry or croissant dough.