It was in Madrid in March where I first met salmorejo, gazpacho's richer, deeper cousin. The cool, creamy tomato soup transcended seasonality. It was topped with egg and jamon iberico, which wept fatty tears over its surface. Salmorejo demands that you act as a Spaniard and mop up every drop with bread. Then, like an American, you order another. —Alex Raij, a chef-owner of La Vara and Txikito restaurants in New York City
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