A pita sandwich of griddled spiced meats and onions, this is one of Jerusalem's most beloved street foods. You can substitute boneless chicken thighs and more breast meat for the hearts and livers, if you like.
- 2 tsp. turmeric
- 1 tsp. black peppercorns
- 1 tsp. allspice berries
- 1⁄4 tsp. ground cinnamon
- 1⁄4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
- 1⁄2 lb. chicken breasts, cut into 1" cubes
- 1⁄2 lb. chicken hearts, halved and rinsed
- 1⁄2 lb. chicken livers, rinsed and roughly chopped
- 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 large yellow onions, roughly chopped
- Kosher salt, to taste
- Fresh pitas, for serving
- Amba and pickled peppers for serving
Combine turmeric, peppercorns, allspice, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a spice grinder and grind to a fine powder; set aside. Heat a dry 12" cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until nearly smoking. Add chicken breasts and cook, flipping once, until browned but not cooked through, 2–3 minutes. Transfer chicken to a bowl; set aside. Return skillet to medium-high heat and add chicken hearts and cook, flipping occasionally, until browned but not cooked through, 2–3 minutes. Transfer hearts to the bowl with the chicken breast. Repeat with chicken livers.
Return skillet to medium-high heat and add the oil; add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft and slightly charred, about 4 minutes. Add the reserved spices and chicken and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until chicken is cooked through, about 3 minutes. To serve, cut slits in the tops of the pitas. Fill pitas with chicken mixture; top each sandwich with some of the amba and pickled peppers.